Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Last Month in Vallarta - The Biggest of Them All (Halloween, Day of the Dead, All You Can Eat Bonanzas, Crocodiles, Road Trips, Send-Off parties, and Heaps of Work Winding Up At The Project!

Well this is it, l begin writing this blog on the eve of my departure from Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico. Tomorrow morning l fly to Oaxaca to begin two weeks travelling on my own in Mexico where l will then meet up with Mark and the boys in Guatemala for Christmas and New Years. This marks the last night of five and a half amazing and at times tough months here in Vallarta. So with bags packed and perched by the door, what is there to say, more than l have the capacity to write now, for emotion and fatigue clouds my thoughts. There were a lot of tears over the last few days as it's not so much the place that l am saying goodbye to but the amazing people who have filled it and welcomed me over these months. 

These last weeks gave up the biggest month in Vallarta both in terms of festivities and work at the project.  We had halloween; Day of the Dead; Guadalajara take 3; near death by all you can eat buffet; weekends of bbq's, markets and films; another trip to the drag show; travel to Tepic/ La Tobara and San Blass; party nights; goodbye parties and most importantly finishing up work at the Project. Ok kids, this is a big one, one filled with great times and memories and reflections on the five and a half months here in Vallarta.

We will start the recollections with Halloween, a tradition not greatly celebrated in my experience of Australia. We all trundled over to Juistina's house to celebrate what l see as a bit of an odd holiday, however since l love to get dressed up am more than happy to participate and see how the Mexicans do it! This also marked the birthday of one of the younger members of the family so the festivities were carried out to the sounds of squeals of delight and sugar filled children beating piƱatas into another dimension .

The family was trying to convince me to go for a full costume however l luckily agreed only to a mask as only those under the age of 11 had gone all out for the festivities. There was talk of me going as a scantily clad mermaid....
Children pre- sugar and pre- pinata beating, Angels!
Legs, arms and eventually torsos were flying through the trees followed by the mad dash of lolly recovery by all children (and not so small children) 
Nauli, Kelly, Kim and Alex. The fake axe had to be removed from the beloved little  pumpkins grasp as soon after this photo she went for the cat.
Day of the Dead came next, a festivity that l was very much looking forward to due to the global hype surrounding Mexican celebrations for this event. However, what l discovered after an informative tour with good friend and guide Adriana, is that it is actually quite a low key event for most people here. In it's basic form (l am sure that there is much more to this than l am reporting however with translation difficulties among other things this is what l understood it to signify). It is a time to remember and give offerings to those in your family that have passed. Families will tend to travel to the cemetery to clean the graves and sometimes have a meal by the grave site. They will also set up a shrine in the home with a photo and offerings of different causes that the person liked, have a meal and spend time with each other as a family. Most of my friends did something like this for the day and others did not celebrate it all as they are not catholic or they do not have anyone close to them that has passed or are living away from their families. The colours of orange, purple and black supposedly carry significance (information that was forgotten to be pursued by all involved).

Shrines set up in the central plaza of Pitillal

My guide of the day, Adriana!
A group of high school students about to walk into Vallarta Centro (maybe an hour-and half' s walk) to mark the celebration. They were extremely excited to pose for this photo.
The following weekend was marked by heading to Guadalajara with Mariana to check out some of the local therapy hot spots, meet some amazing therapists and stay with her fabulous family. We left on the Thursday afternoon on the bus filled with supplies, excitement and a six pack to celebrate the end of the week and the beginning of our girls weekend away.

The next day we rose early and headed to DIF, a government funded rehabilitation hospital to meet an amazing occupational therapist who had firstly studied physiotherapy in the army and then returned to university some years after this to study OT. Every day she runs a series of group activities from children with disabilities to adults with hemiplegia  She is the sole occupational therapist at this facility and typically utilises family members and student therapists to assist in a gruelling schedule. She also has a sensory room set up that would rival any found in Australia and has developed a resource base that for her budget is remarkable.

After this we went to the complete other end of the spectrum, TELETON! This is an organisation solely run on donations from big companies (banks, telephone etc.) and there are approximately twelve situated around Mexico. They service solely children with neuromuscular disabilities, who typically attend the centre daily. We were not allowed to take any photos inside the facility and also had to pass armed guards to get in. This centre is easily to par with what l have seen to date in Australia. Everything from the internal architecture, designs on the floors and walls, and the free bus service from closest bus and train station has been geared towards facilitating the experience for the children. It was so impressive let alone the therapy offered, resources available and expectations of therapists and families to support and achieve for these children. I joked about wanting to smuggle out half the resources (and therapists) for Proyecto Pitillal (...joked...) as we were shown around the different aspects of the centre, l was continuously sizing up the therapy tool to hand bag size ratio. We were amazed and inspired so we went and bought some therapy tools and then returned to the Project and organised their resources with the intent that it could be used as a program that nearly anyone could deliver. I also thought if a country that is nowhere near as affluent as Australia can do this then surely we too could achieve similar. The activist and therapist in me was alive and what better way to delve into this but with beer, impassioned conversations and ridiculous amounts (and sized) food!

TELETON! Yes it does look a bit Darth Vader-ish from the outside. However has a spectacular view of Guadalajara!
Mariana and l in the carpark, unable to take photos anywhere else, we leave with ideas, passion and thirst!
Is that pastor as big as that man...yes...yes it is... only one of the images of this weekend
where food could have eaten man!
We go to a bar for just one beer....any bar....we are not picky....a little baby beer arrives, this is a gift....then two beers each arrive....did you not know it is happy hour (s) two for one....no sir we did not....thankyou sir... l have a bright idea!
Mariana and her sister getting serious with all of our free beers.
The rest of the weekend was fabulous, quiet times with Marian's family, driving around the city, heading for birria on the Sunday morning before making our way back to Vallarta. A great weekend and an honour to meet some amazing therapists, a fabulous family and eat some ridiculous amounts of food.

So l am not too sure why, however what followed this weekend was more food. Within two or three days due to the arrival of the lovely Joey (Ivan's boyfriend) we headed out for an all Mexi-American buffet at Sirloin Stockade. I went, l ate, l was defeated after two plates of savoury and a plate of desert, l was going to put photos of said plates however shame filled me. I was amazed to see that the people who frequent these places are more than passionate eaters. They are not there to mess around, they are not there for fun, they are there to eat the place dry. I breathed deep as l entered. Make my country, my family, myself proud. I believed in me. I left with distended belly and a faint concern that l may not live through the night as my stomach was going to crush my heart in my sleep. I enjoyed expressing this concern in Spanish whilst trying not to vomit in my mouth.

Family post feed. 
Joey and Ivan, surprisingly reserved in their feeding, the American disapointed us all, sticking to one plate each of savoury and sweet. Yes these are things l choose to recollect.
So l waddled through the week, doing more yoga in the mornings and nights to try and counter balance all this feeding, only to go to a BBQ at Greta's beautiful home in La Crux. A fabulous afternoon and evening of an eclectic and interesting bunch of people from all over the world (we tallied Mexican, Canadian, French, English and Australian). A lovely night hearing everyone's stories (and accents) of how they came to be here in this crazy and beautiful country. We left late for the salsa assuming that it would be raging however unfortunately due to our banter we had missed the festivities. Not to worry, it was a really great night.


The next day we headed to the La Crux market, set by the sea and filled with Mexican and foreign foods, crafts and arts. A beautiful day of meandering, chatting with vendors, and enjoying the passer bys. We returned to finish the BBQ from the night before when one of us suggested heading to the latest Twilight film With a ridiculous amount of anticipation we searched to see if it had even been released, our breaths held we shrieked as we found a session playing at one of the local cinemas. I haven't been to the cinema in a long time and my first Mexican cinema experience was amazing. The entire crowd was belly laughing, hands held to mouth, shrieking and generally just loving it! An end to such a lovely weekend, as we left the cinema weary from all the tension and excitement we travelled in our separate directions, happy and content with how the weekend had treated us!

Greta's massive cactus!
La crux market
What's that in my hand?! yep that's what you think it is...that's my Twilight ticket, l could of been the most excited girl in the world at this stage!
My equally excited compatriots, Fran and Greta, minutes from entering into the most enjoyable cinema going experience l have had for a very long time!
On one Monday in the midst of all of this l recieve an email from Mark whilst at work, "Do you know that Matt and Sarah are in Vallarta?" "no, no l did not!". What ensued was some very fun evenings where after work l would trot down to the beach to hang with these guys and chat away the afternoon. It was so nice to have Australian friends here once again, so great to hear of all their adventures through South America and their plans for the future. In amongst all of this we decided it was necessary, absolutely necessary (!) for a trip to see Ivan's show....and this is what ensued, there is only one word in Spanish for this and it's "borrachos!"
Looking very dignified and contained on arrival!
Matt was concerned and didn't want Sarah to drink too much,
'entonces' he did the manly thing and took one (sorry no, two) for the team
Curious on lookers?!
Have been trying to ever remember since what was happening on the stage during this moment....
and l have nothing
Getting to strut our stuff on the stage with the girls!
So after this l rose with sore head and trudge my way to the project, grumbling under my breath at Matt and Sarah (who were snorkelling at this stage) for creating this highly undesirable experience. However, within a few days we were mended and bundling off on a road trip with Greta and another volunteer, Fran to La Tobara, San Blass and Tepic. A fabulous weekend of crocodiles and colonial Spanish forts, tours of Tepic and another experience of the depths of Mexican hospitality from the fabulous Elvira and her husband. 


A beautiful boat ride through tree covered canals and mangroves, with trees/ plants, birds and reptiles 
Greta and Fran enjoying the boat ride to the Crocodiles, we had a fabulously passionate driver (captain!?) who was happily pointing out all the birds, trees and animals we passed
One big Crocodile!
The famous smoked fish and banana bread of San Blas, this marked yet another weekend of 'feeding'. I think l stopped 'eating' about three weeks ago and began 'feeding' as enormous amounts of food being presented without rest. I began to think that people were maybe trying to sedate me with food like they do with the crocodiles and tigers in tourist spots so they can be patted!? 
Elvira and her husband cooking us a Carne Asada on our arrival in Tepic. Here we had a very 'serious' and in-depth class on how to fan a BBQ....it's all in the hips ladies, all in the hips!
Cactus (Nopale) and cheese toasted sandwiches....awesomely ridiculous!!
As well because they look like frogs!
The beautiful plaza of Tepic
Our happy troup on the Tepic tour, Fran and I were the only non Mexicans on the trip, thankyou Greta for your fabulous interpreting for us! We went all around Tepic hearing of the history and important places of Tepic, a fabulous day! 
The old cloth factory of Tepic that was burnt down by it's French owner who absconded with all the takings.
I kept my partially French heritage quiet at this stage!

After all of this we were pretty tired and hungry with a healthy thirst hanging about all of us. We were whisked off by our hosts to one of their favourite bars, a Botanero. A fabulous Mexican tradition of where  you get free food with your drinks and the more you drink the more and better the food gets. We were showered with cerviche, prawns, fish and many other causes until full and happy. Where we returned to the family home for what ensued was an impromptu and endless stream of children, partners, brothers and grandchildren flooding in and out of the house. At one stage twelve people filled the living room all just dropping by to say hello to the parentals. Elvira, nooded stating, 'this is why l have an endless supply of tortillas and frijoles, everytime...everytime!'
 

Round one, one bucket of beer and 7 plates of food....... 

Just your average 7 people in a taxi on the way home from a pub singing along to 60's classics!
We drove home from Tepic to Vallarta through beautiful twisty mountains as Mexican farms of banana and sugar cane crops passed us by. The trees yawned and stretched over the road creating a fabulous green tunnel as we nattered in Spanish and English on topics only women can have. We were tired and happy, a fantastic weekend.

This now marks the beginning of the end of Wendy in Vallarta (for now), from here it was all goodbye parties and send-offs, pensive bus rides to work, and many many good times. So bizarre as l know in my heart that it is not the last time l will see many of these people however it still felt so sad. Many, many great friends have been made. I feel so honoured that they have shared a little of their lives and stories with me. They opened their families and homes and shared their views and ideas on Mexico and the world. So from here l will let the pictures tell the stories of the final goodbyes with some of these fabulous people, because to type much more will only make me cry.
Lucky the Dog, a street dog who was rescued by Mexpup and was staying with Lupita until well enough to  head to Canada to be adopted. For some reason Lucky became very attached to me and throughout many of my spanish lessons was enthusiastically licking my legs, "l know it looks like it, but it's just not chicken!"
                  

Lupita my Spanish teacher and her husband John, on our games day send off, a fun afternoon of Jenga and darts with a beautiful taco fiesta cooked up by Lupita! Without Lupita l wouldn't have been able to have half of the conversations that have filled these months, l will be forever greatful for her teachings and friendship.

Mariana and l's last weekend session in Bucerius, spent chatting by the beach, chatting of the project and therapy, and reminiscing on some great times together. After which we headed to another bar nearby to enjoy some cocktails and karaoke, for Mariana to adopt a cat and basically just a lot of singing and dancing! She is my best friend in Mexico, l am so happy to have met her and had all the great laughs and moments. I am forever in debt to her and her support over these months in Vallarta.
Mariana's new cat! Named La Vaquita (the little cow!) due to it's colouring and ridiculousness!
What's better than cats and cocktails!
The fabulous German and Mariana, a very fun fun night was had!
In amongst all this was Dia de Discapasidad (Day for Disability) in Mexico, a day that many organisations look forward to all year. All the organisations working with people with disabilities get together, parade down the Malacon and then have a concert at Los Arcos. A really fun afternoon, and yet again another true honour to be apart of.
Getting ready to set off on the parade!
Parading!
Adriana and her beautiful daughter Abigail in full parade action
Concert at Los Arcos, where every organisation presented something, singing/ dancing and many other fun  things!
The following night was the hysterical and enormous Fiesta Joya! Ivan and his family put on an amazingly fun night to say goodbye with a mechanical bull, Mark shaped pinata, lots of amazing food and many, many good times and laughs!


Kim and Kelly the youngest of the Joya clan, adorable lil ones!

Wipe out!! we all ended like this eventually, Ivan's aunt the hysterical Christina!
Ivan's sister Nauli, who was able to look beautiful and graceful even on a mechanical bull! 
Juistina, Ivan's mum, holding on for dear life, l will never forget the sound of her laughter that night, so infectious!
This was a very short lived position, l really needed two hands!
Ivan who ended up dismounting off the front of the bull!
Uncle Juan, there is nothing funnier than this man on a mechanical bull!
Ivan's other sister Lis, again looking exceptionally graceful during her dismount!
Mark in pinata form, l questioned how grandma and uncle were so spot on with anatomical  features?! 
The creator with his masterpiece!
The wonderful family of Alex, Nauli and Kelly. So many good times were had with this lil clan! 
Christina and l doing what we know best!
Christina, Juistina and Maria, the three sisters!
Sorry Mark....! It was really fun!
So all that is left now is the final day and send off party with the folks from Proyecto Pitillal. I was emotionally pretty good the whole day until having to say goodbye to two specific kids. Once l started crying l found it pretty hard to stop, so much has happened and has been shared and learnt with these people. So much generosity and patience. So much that l can't verbalise. I am so privileged to have been a part of this organisation, these people daily lives and to know these children for a very, very short period of time.
Final Friday morning Torta with Adriana!
Martha the director of the project at going away dinner and drinks.  She doesn't have an easy job keeping this centre open and l wish her all the luck and fortune to keep this fabulous centre and resource open for the children. 
Adriana and her husband Serafin
The Proyecto Pitillal gang having a wonderful night of great food, laughs, tears and drink!  
The nannies, Rosario and Mireya with Adriana.
The entire crew, full with food and very happy! 
So, on the way home we decided to detour via Adriana's house  so that l could say goodbye to her family. What ensued was a fabulous night of singing and dancing, a few more tears and some fabulous laughs.
With the cries of "This song is for Wendy!" heard more than once. 
Adriana's crazy and amazing family, such great friends. I have agreed to bring 7  Kangaroos back for  each family....
l wonder what the baggage charge will be on that one!
The very last photo of the gals of Proyecto Pitillal, Mariana, Mireya, myself and Adriana. 

Gosh, so it is surreal, l finish writing this blog from Oaxaca, pushing back emotion as l reminisce on these amazing people who have shared their lives, taught me about Mexico and essentially about myself. People keep asking me, do you feel like you have made a worthwhile contribution to the project. I don't know. I do know that they have made a fair impression on me. I will miss the faces and the complexities of the children, brain storming with Mariana, the hugs at the door and throughout the day (albeit a little brusque at times). The generosity and the patience was overwhelming. l feel like l could of done more, had l arrived as a more confident therapist, it took me months to find my feet, however l learnt an enormous amount about myself as a person and a practitioner. I have discovered that l love working in the field of disability and am impassioned to learn more about the specific skills needed to work with these complex clients.

To Outreach International and Great l would like to thank you for making this possible and supporting me through this process. There were times that were very hard and you were there to support me and take me for a beer or a cocktail when needed. Greta l will never forget your friendship, l know we will share a meal again, as we both eat like dogs!

The amazing Joya family, the night before flying out from Vallarta, l thank you for everything!

As l look back on how full and fabulous this last month was and how satisfying the work at the project was l feel some regrets that l should of lived the entire 5 and a half months like that. l would like to think l did, however l know l didn't. It is quite a blur, even the hard nights when l felt lonely and tired and wanting the comfort of routine and familiarity. As l recollect the hard nights l am reaffirmed that those nights are needed, however not to give into, maybe l need to learn to be a bit stronger in that respect. However l am a person that feels a lot, and l would rather feel that than nothing. So as l sit here in Oaxaca with the happy noise of backpackers about me, l am so happy to be travelling, it was time to go. On worrying about whether l lived a full experience every day of those five and a half months, l know l can only live as well as l can. I have given what l have given, l hope that was enough, and most of all l am sad to say goodbye to my friends. In the words of any proud Mclellan it's time l qouted some Shawshank Redemption. "l find l'm so excited, l can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head....l hope to see my friend (s) again and shake (their) hand(s)....l hope the pacific is as blue as it has been in my dreams. I hope". As l said, l have no doubt and l feel it in my heart, l will see these amazing friends again, until then, l wish you well and send many hugs and kisses.

Not as much as l will miss you, many many thanks, from every part of my heart xo